TOME'S SPRING-SUMMER 2014 FILM

INSPIRATION COMES FROM UNLIKELY PLACES FOR THE NEW YORK- BASED, AUSTRALIAN DUO OF RYAN LOBO AND RAMONE MARTIN. 

THE SPRING/SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION OF THEIR LABEL, TOME, IS AN HOMAGE TO THE CUBAN - AMERICAN ARTIST ANA MEDIETA. THE LATE ARTIST'S HAND DRAWINGS AND HER SELF PORTRAITS WHICH EXPLORE HER RELATIONSHIP WITH NATURE SERVE AS THE FOUNDATION FOR THE READY -TO WEAR RANGE OF THE LABEL, WHICH INCORPORATES DREAMY PASTELS IN CREAM, ROSE AND EARTH TONES. SLIP DRESSES WITH FLOATY LINES, OVERSIZED CULOTTES AND TRENCHES FEATURE TULLE, DELICATE LACE SHREDDED TWEED AND HIGH SHINE PLASTICS. 

THE PRESENTATION OF THE COLLECTION WAS DIRECTED BY AUSTRALIAN MICHELLE JANK AND A FILM WAS MADE BY ALEXANDER SEILER WHICH DEPUTED ON THE 19TH OF NOVEMBER 2013 AT TRACE: RETROSPECTIVE OF ANA MEDIETA'S WORK AT HAYWARD GALLERY, SOUTHBANK CENTRE, LONDON.

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Source: Oyster Magazine

VALENTINO SPRING 2014

VALENTINO DESIGNERS MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI AND PIER PAOLO PICCIOLI GOT INSPIRED FOR THEIR LATEST COLLECTION BY A VISIT TO THE ATELIERS OF THE ROMAN OPERA. 

THE COLLECTION CONSISTED OF 73 DIFFERENT LOOKS, FULLY EMBELLISHED WITH BYZANTINE- INSPIRED  EMBROIDERIES. A THICK BURGUNDY HEADBAND STUDDED WITH GOLD MEDALLIONS KEPT THE MODELS HAIR BACK TO KEEP THEIR FACES CLEAR.

ELEGANT, STRICT LINES CHARACTERIZED THE SILHOUETTES BUT REAL CRAFTSMANSHIP WAS NEEDED TO DECORATE THE PIECES WITH WEIGHTY BEADWORK AND COUTURE-LEVEL FOLKSY DECORATIONS.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD- RED LABEL SS14 READY-TO- WEAR

SUPERMODEL LILY COLE OPENED THE LATEST VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FASHION SHOW WITH A RITUALISTIC SOLO DANCE PERFORMANCE BATHED IN RED LIGHT IN AN IMPRESSIVE DRESS OF FLOWING FABRICS.

THE SHOW FEATURED PATTERNED JUMPSUITS, SCARVES KNOTTED TO THE KNEES, FLORAL DRESSES. MAIN ACCESSORIES WERE GLADIATOR WEDGES WITH LONG STRAPS AND STRAPLESS SATCHELS HELD AS CLUTCH BAGS.

THE MODELS WORE STRONG THEATRICAL MAKE UP AND MAKE -UP ARTIST VAL GARLAND USED A FEATHER TO CREATE INTRICATE BLACK, BLUE AND RED  DESIGNS.

ALL IMAGES FOR DAZED AND CONFUSED

THOM BROWNE IN NYFW SS14

FASHIONABLY DISTURBING.

50 MINUTES WAS THE TIME THE AUDIENCE HAD TO WAIT FOR THE THOM BROWNE SHOW TO START AT NYFW SITTING IN A WHITE CHELSEA GALLERY WITH PADDED WHITE WALLS, HEADLESS PLASTER BODIES HANGING FROM THE CEILING AND FLICKERING LIGHTS.

BROWNE, A DESIGNER WHO IS KNOWN FOR HIS ABSURD AND THEATRICAL SHOWS, CREATED A 25 MINUTE SHOW THAT GAVE THE FEELING OF AN INSANE ASYLUM.

FIRST OUT WERE THE NURSES, IN STIFF WHITE LACE AND PADDED HIPS, OFFERING DOSSES OF WHITE M&MS IN LITTLE PLASTIC CUPS WHILE MARCHING THROUGH THE ROOMS OF THE SET.  THEN THE MODELS/ PATIENTS FOLLOWED MADE UP WITH WHITE FOUNDATION  AND SMEARED RED LIPSTICK, LIKE HEATH LEDGER IN ''THE DARK KNIGHT'' AND COTTON CANDY HAIR.

BUILDING DRESSES AS IF THEY WERE ARCHITECTURE WITH THREE- DIMENSIONAL FABRIC APPLICATIONS. FINELY PLEATED SILK, CAGES OF WHITE LATTICEWORK AND FINE LACE CONSTRUCT WHITE HOBBLE DRESSES AND CORSETED JACKETS WITH HIGH COLLARS. WHITE LATEX AND RUBBER ACCESSORIES WERE ALSO PRESENT STRESSING THE CLINICAL/ HOSPITAL FEELING OF THE SHOW.

IS THE COLLECTION A METAPHOR OF THE FEMALE EXPERIENCE? SOME SAY YES.
THE MODELS WALKED ALMOST AWKWARDLY IN COUTURE THAT  WAS INSPIRED BY THE ELIZABETHAN ERA WITH DRESSES THAT COVER AND RESHAPE THE BODY IN AN EXAGGERATED FEMININITY, INFINITE DETAILS AND OVER THE TOP SHAPES.

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PICTURES BY:  DAZED AND CONFUSED AND VOGUE.