THOM BROWNE IN NYFW SS14

FASHIONABLY DISTURBING.

50 MINUTES WAS THE TIME THE AUDIENCE HAD TO WAIT FOR THE THOM BROWNE SHOW TO START AT NYFW SITTING IN A WHITE CHELSEA GALLERY WITH PADDED WHITE WALLS, HEADLESS PLASTER BODIES HANGING FROM THE CEILING AND FLICKERING LIGHTS.

BROWNE, A DESIGNER WHO IS KNOWN FOR HIS ABSURD AND THEATRICAL SHOWS, CREATED A 25 MINUTE SHOW THAT GAVE THE FEELING OF AN INSANE ASYLUM.

FIRST OUT WERE THE NURSES, IN STIFF WHITE LACE AND PADDED HIPS, OFFERING DOSSES OF WHITE M&MS IN LITTLE PLASTIC CUPS WHILE MARCHING THROUGH THE ROOMS OF THE SET.  THEN THE MODELS/ PATIENTS FOLLOWED MADE UP WITH WHITE FOUNDATION  AND SMEARED RED LIPSTICK, LIKE HEATH LEDGER IN ''THE DARK KNIGHT'' AND COTTON CANDY HAIR.

BUILDING DRESSES AS IF THEY WERE ARCHITECTURE WITH THREE- DIMENSIONAL FABRIC APPLICATIONS. FINELY PLEATED SILK, CAGES OF WHITE LATTICEWORK AND FINE LACE CONSTRUCT WHITE HOBBLE DRESSES AND CORSETED JACKETS WITH HIGH COLLARS. WHITE LATEX AND RUBBER ACCESSORIES WERE ALSO PRESENT STRESSING THE CLINICAL/ HOSPITAL FEELING OF THE SHOW.

IS THE COLLECTION A METAPHOR OF THE FEMALE EXPERIENCE? SOME SAY YES.
THE MODELS WALKED ALMOST AWKWARDLY IN COUTURE THAT  WAS INSPIRED BY THE ELIZABETHAN ERA WITH DRESSES THAT COVER AND RESHAPE THE BODY IN AN EXAGGERATED FEMININITY, INFINITE DETAILS AND OVER THE TOP SHAPES.

TAKE A LOOK!

PICTURES BY:  DAZED AND CONFUSED AND VOGUE.

Y-3 SPRING SUMMER 2014 RUNWAY SHOW

''MEANINGLESS EXCITEMENT'' IS THE NAME THAT Y-3'S ART DIRECTOR PETER SAVILLE GAVE THE BRAND'S NEW COLLECTION.

INSPIRED BY DIGITAL NOISE THE COLLECTION AND ITS TITLE STRIVE TO FORM A CRITIQUE, BUT ALSO A CELEBRATION OF INTERNET CULTURE AND ITS ENDLESS PURSUIT OF THE NEST BIG THING.

THE DESIGNS FEATURE DISTRORTED SLOGANS AND BRIGHT, ACID  PRINTS WHILE BRINGING TOGETHER THE ELEGANCE OF JAPANESE TAILORING AND AMERICAN ICONIC STREETWEAR FOR MEN AND WOMEN. CLASSIC AMERICAN STYLES ARE SUBVERTED LIKE A SPORTS JACKET COMBINED WITH A KIMONO.

EXTRACTING IMAGES AND WORDS FROM THE VASTNESS OF THE INTERNET WORLD, LIKE PERSONAL BLOGS, SOCIAL MEDIA AND ONLINE FORUMS, SAVILLE COPIES AND PASTES THE COLLECTED MATERIAL INTO A COLLAGE THAT REFLECTS THE BEAUTY, BUT ALSO THE DIVERSITY OF THE NET.

A HIGHLIGHT OF THE COLLECTION? A BREAKTHOUGH FABRIC CONCEPT WHERE KNITWEAR FEATURE SIMPLE SPORTSWEAR STAPLES THAT LITERALLY EMIT LIGHT. THESE FORM HIDDEN MESSAGES ON THE CLOTHES THAT CAN BE READ ONLY UNDER SPECIFIC LIGHT CONDITIONS (LIKE THE FLASH OF A CAMERA).

THE SHOW CLOSED WITH THREE GOWNS IN COUTURE STYLE REMINDER OF YOJI YAMAMOTO'S CLASSIC STYLE WHILE THE MODELS WALKED IN THE RHYTHMS OF A LIVE DRUM PERFORMANCE.

TAKE A LOOK AT THE SHOW!

THREEASFOUR READY-TO WEAR SS14 COLECTION.

THE AVANT GARDE DESIGN TRIO THREEASFOUR TAKE THREE SYLLABLES AS THEIR STARTING POINT FOR THEIR NEW COLLECTION. 
MER KA BA, FIND ECHOES THROUGHOUT THE HISTORY OF THE THREE GREAT MONOTHEIST RELIGIONS, CHRISTIANITY, JUDAISM AND ISLAM AND FOR THE DESIGNERS GABI ASFOUR, ANGELA DONHAUSER AND ADI GIL BECAME THE PATHWAY TO DEVELOP THEIR DESIGNS.

INFUSING THEIR COLLECTION WITH WORSHIP SYMBLOLISM AND POETIC SPIRITUALITY, THE DESIGNERS LOOKED INTO THE ARCHITECTURE OF SACRED PLACES TO CREATE THE INTRICATE PATTERNS THAT SERVE AS VISUAL REFERENCES TO THE COLLECTION.

AS THEY TOLD FASHIONISTA, THEY ''STARTED AS ALWAYS WITH THE HUMAN BODY, ACCORDING TO SACRED GEOMETRY, EVERYTHING IN NATURE IS PROPORTIONAL. THEN (WE ) LOOKED AT THE GEOMETRY AND TILE PATTERNS IN SYNAGOGUES, MOSQUES AND CHURCHES THROUGHOUT HISTORY''

3-D PRINTING AND LASER CUTTING WERE USED TO BRING THE SYMBOLIC PATTERNS TOGETHER IN ORDER TO FORM NEW ONES, CREATING A DIVERSE MIX IN BLACK AND WHITE.

ALTHOUGH EXPERIMENTAL, THE COLLECTION STAYS TRUE TO ITS READY-TO-WEAR TITLE AND IT CAN BE IMAGINED WORN. THE REFERENCES MAY BE DEEPLY SPIRITUAL BUT THE DESIGNS RETAIN AN 'ON EARTH' CHARACTER.

IMAGES FROM: VOGUE.COM